Camino tip: It is not the best idea to drink seven glasses of wine when one must walk thirteen miles the following day.
It was another night of snoring. I was half drunk so I only half minded. The man in the bunk above me tossed and turned and the girl across the aisle moaned in her sleep. I sent emails at 3 in the morning and waited for the sun to rise.
Today was a hot day. Even at 7 a.m. it was warm. The path was dirt-packed and exposed. A long line of pilgrims, sweaty and limping, wound our way through Spain’s Basque country.
I am lucky because I have only one blister. But it is on the bottom of my foot, just below my toes, and there’s nothing I can do to escape it. “Does it hurt?” someone asked me. “Only when I walk,” I said. I have discovered Compeed, which is Europe’s version of Moleskin except it works, but it hasn’t helped much. What can I do? People run marathons on prosthetic legs and climb mountains blind so surely I can walk with a blister.
Today on the trail I met a man from Scotland who is walking the Camino for the second year in a row. He said he heard about the Camino over 30 years ago while sitting in the pub back home. A Frenchman came in and told tales of walking across Spain, of knocking on doors to beg for bread and sleeping in stables. The Scotsman told me the Camino has been in his mind ever since, an idea that just wouldn’t leave him. I have asked many people why they are walking the Camino and this is the response I get most often. The seed was planted and they had to let it grow. The same is true for me.
I ask the man from Scotland why he came back this year and he says it is to find something that he lost or to discover that he never lost it. He told me that last year his walk was very emotional. I want to ask why but I sense it isn’t my place.
My mind still feels empty, unburdened. Hila’s mind seems to be churning. She stops every half hour or so to type notes on her phone. I hope she is finding what she came here for.
Today was hard for me. I wanted to bitch and moan. For a minute or two I wanted to cry. But I didn’t.
Today I walked 13 miles (22 km)