As our last few days in South America came to a close, Brian and I found ourselves in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. We’d never intended to go to Brazil but flights from Rio to India, where I was flying for the Rickshaw Run, were exponentially cheaper than flights from Buenos Aires, the city we’d originally planned to end our South American travels in. So we reworked our plans and off we went, crossing the boarder from Argentina into Brazil by bus near Iguazu Falls.
Experience is the great teacher and I’m embarrassed to admit now, after visiting Rio, that I was frightened to go. I’d heard so much about crime in the city so I suppose I’d conjured up some image of a lawless, dangerous metropolis.
After a 28-hour (!) ride our bus pulled into Rio in the late hours, after nightfall, and a taxi dropped us off at our hostel.
Brian and I only had two full days in Rio so we pre-scheduled a jeep tour with Class Adventure Travel, a company that offers vacation packages and Brazil Tours. They would pick us up early the following morning.
A jeep, which was hard to miss as you can see from the photo above, pulled up to our hostel at 8 a.m. and drove us through a gleaming, beautiful city of high-rise buildings and beaches crowded with sunbathers. Rio was not as I’d imagined it at all. Groups of hard-bodied beach-goers played volleyball and juggled soccer balls in the sand. Runners and bikers crowded the sidewalks.
We drove to Tijuca National Park, located in the heart of Rio. Tijuca National Park is the home of the largest urban forest in the world (who knew?) and covers approximately 3.5% of the Rio de Janeiro municipality.
The park is home to the famous Cristo Redentor statue that sits perched atop Corcovado Mountain. Our jeep stopped here and Brian and I climbed the stairs to a stunning overlook. The statue was larger than life. I’d see the iconic symbol on television and in movies many times throughout my life but now I was actually here.
After visiting the statue we took a leisurely drive through the National Park, stopping at waterfalls and overlooks and taking short walks on the hiking trails. I’d never have guessed that Rio was so filled with green space. Waterfalls tumbled down rock faces and brightly painted colonial-style houses sat perched under palm trees like eccentric old ladies.
I always love it when a place surprises me and Rio did just that. I was surprised by its natural spaces and its active vibe. And I fell head-over-heels in love with the beaches.
Rio’s beaches are their own living thing. They function like small, sandy cities. People hawk food and drink and all manner of stuff. You can buy almost anything on the beaches of Rio. Men and women alike strut in thong bikinis, their butts literally defying gravity. (Seriously, I could not get over this part. How can a butt simply exist like that, perked up by it’s own volition?)
It took us a few months of traveling but Brian and I finally figured out that our favorite way to get to know a new city is with a tour. There are hundreds of South America Tours operating in all of the major cities. I wish we would have jumped on the bandwagon sooner.
I’m still catching up on all that we’ve seen and done in South America. In the coming months I will sprinkle these South American stories onto the blog as I simultaneously tell our stories from India. Thanks, as always, for following us onto the next continent.












{ 44 comments… read them below or add one }
Awesome stuff….with the World Cup and Olympics coming to town, Rio is very high on my list…
I REALLY want to go back for the Olympics!
Wait, I meant WORLD CUP! (But the Olympics would be great too…)
We were in Rio a few months ago and really enjoyed it. The hawkers on the beach were rather annoying but I know they are only trying to make a living.
I loved Sugar Loaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer, even though they are very touristy (but I guess they are touristy for a reason!).
And those butts – You’re right! How do they defy gravity so well??? I need to get me one of those!
Wow, a few months! Where did you stay? We weren’t there very long so I know we only scratched the surface. We didn’t even get to Sugar Loaf because it was overcast on the day we wanted to go.
My overwhelming impression of Rio was the beach and the slums. We went through two favelas and it was heartbreaking. My worst memory is a boy of about 8 who kind of shook himself, for lack of a better description, at the guy I was traveling with and asked if he wanted to have fun. It still haunts me. Rio is definitely a city of contrasts.
Did you take a favela tour? I wanted to go on one but the timing didn’t work out. That is terrible about the boy. I learned of one favela tour run by a man who lives in the favela and the proceeds from the tour stay in the favela.
I understand that not everyone visiting Rio are gonna end up getting robbed or kidnapped just walking down the street…even if it does feel like that’s what the media want us to think. Thank you for sharing your story of Rio, and by the sounds of it Rio is an awesome place, and I can’t wait to go there next summer and experience it for myself. My mum is gonna be worried sick though…
Hi Pernilla. I think Rio has it all. You have to be alert and vigilant but there are many safe places in Rio. Enjoy yourself there!
Great photos Kim, and the tour looks fun. I had no idea Rio was so green either, incredible.
Thanks dear! I bet you’d like it there.
I knew Rio was green! I knew so cause in the movie with the parrot there is green everywhere
I do love a good tour these days, when Sarah and I did Cairo it was on tour, and I couldn’t imagine doing a city like that any other way.
I didn’t watch that movie (but EVERYONE asked if I had!). Tours are the way to go. We always try to do them on the first or second day we’re in a new city, then we know where we want to explore.
Beautiful! I’m glad the trip went great. The heat looks wonderful as it is very cold in Oregon today!
The heat was quite nice. I miss cold, rainy days in Oregon though (can you believe it?)
It’s cool to read about your Rio adventure Kim!! I want to say two things, first, that your writing has really blossomed and that even in a ‘destination piece’ like this, it’s still really cool to read, and two, that you are really photogenic lady!!!
Does that mean I’m uglier in real life?!
Thanks Sarah. It means a lot to know that I am finding my voice (it’s hard for me to write pieces like this, so I’m glad they are still enjoyable).
There are truly “So many places”! I’m trying to break away from the preconceptions I develop here in the states, reading horror stories such as there are of Rio. I should know better having been to so many of those places with no problems.
I like your idea of taking a city bus tour to get a quick over-all feel of a place before you dive in on specific likes. It’s too bad that you only had a couple days there in Rio. Was there a reason that you bought your Rio/Delhi ticket in Argentina rather than waiting to buy it in Brazil?
As long term travelers, we’re always learning lessons with experience. Almost always, slower is better! Assumptions usually end up biting you in the rear.
Have fun in Goa relaxing. Just a tip, but if you’re going overland to Nepal, DO NOT miss Varanasi.
Could not agree more, Varanasi is my favorite city in India (so far!). My sister is living in Bangalore now, she works as a Geographer there. If you plan on taking a trip down there, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with her!
How cool to be a Geographer in Bangalore! If we make it down there I will shoot you an email then (and thanks!). I’d love to know how long you’d recommend in Varanasi as well. We’re trying to get the whole thing planned (headed to Kathmandu from Varanasi).
Hi Steve,
We bought our tickets to India way back when we were in Ecuador. They were VERY expensive and we found a good deal so we just jumped on it then.
Varanasi is definitely on the list. In fact, we are going to fly from Varanasi to Kathmandu I think (I don’t know much about overlanding there, I will look at that too). How long would you recommend staying in Varanasi? I’m really excited to go there.
Hi Kim,
You know as well as I that there’s no way to tell someone else how long to stay anywhere as we’re all different and have different likes. We spent about a week there. If you don’t already have a place to stay, ask if the “Ganga Guest House”, D. 25/1, Pandey Ghat, Ganga Mahal is still there. They have a fantastic room on the roof (Penthouse suite) where you can look our over the city and river from about 4 stories up. But, you have to remember to keep the windows shut during the day when you are gone or the monkeys will come in and make a big mess of all your stuff! You can even fly a kite from your patio, right in the middle of the city!
If you get there in the afternoon, set up a row boat ride for the next morning. You can ask the people where you’re staying as they may have someone they know that does rides. Plan to start at sunup as the light on the ghats is just right for photos.
Check out Wandering Earl’s post on Varanasi as he was just there and did a good job on information and pictures.
We came to Varanasi from Nepal. It was an all day bus ride from Pokhara. I highly recommend trekking the Annapurna circuit. We flew in to Jomosom from Pokhara as it was half way on the complete circuit. We took our time and took 2 weeks to return to Pokhara.
Also, we traveled by bus between Kathmandu and Pokhara, stopping to see the rhinos in Chitwan National Park. Hint: When you ride the bus to Pokhara, get one where you can ride on top of the bus with all the luggage. We did and it was fantastic. Much better then inside with heat and smells, the the view of the Himalayas is fantastic! Don’t worry as it’s safe to do.
Kathmandu will blow you away. Plan on it being another “Time out” place!
Cool, thanks Steve! I’m just trying to figure out if we need a few days or a few weeks. I guess we’ll find out for ourselves. I’m excited about Kathmandu!! I’ve heard it’s wild.
What……are you in a hurry? You’re not on vacation ya know! Drink it all in while you’re there. Haste makes waste. Forget the word need, and use want. Leave town when it feels like it’s time to go. Enjoy!
Do not despair! There are two sides to 4/19, before and after. Travel shouldn’t be linear. Doubling back on yourself is not a crime. Some of my best times were on side trips of a great circle route.
Yes, booties in Brazil are the antithesis of booties in Thailand. The one thing you won’t find a hawker selling are the butt pads so popular in Asia!
Butt pads! Now there’s one thing I will never, EVER need!
I am not surprised you loved Rio. I went a few years ago and like you I was a bit nervous because everybody kept telling me how dangerous this place is. I never felt unsafe once (maybe for a short period of time when I sat in a drug lords apartment as part of a favela tour, but that’s about it).
WOW, that’s a pretty intense favela tour (I’m sad we didn’t get to go on one ourselves). Rio is a place that I will definitely visit again.
How did you come across that tour company? I’m usually nervous that it’s either going to be a rip off or something really cheesy. You seem to have some good luck with it, though. Research?
Well, we found out about this company from the Globetrotter Girls (another blog)! But we also use Trip Advisor and the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Forum a lot.
Wow, you have sold Rio to me! Its funny cause my partner felt the same about it being a crime ridden mad house. I think this blog we convince her otherwise.
Where are the photos of the butts though!!! lol.
At one point we were about 2 months behind on our blog so we know how that feels.
Take care,
Paul
I SO wanted to take some pictures of the butts but I was afraid I might get arrested for it (or beat up!).
How are the couchsurfing opportunities in Brazil? Any luck? I am finishing up a 3 month stint in Southeast Asia and intend to head to South America after I finish 2-3 months in Europe.
Well, we didn’t try them so I don’t know for sure but I bet there are a lot of options. Also, Rio is EXPENSIVE (!) so I definitely think couchsurfing is a good way to go. Have fun
Fabulous photos! Looks like you’re living the drewam, what with the Rickshaw run and Rio in such a short space of time! Amazing! Keep having fun!
We were even in German for a few days in the week between Rio and India. It’s been crazy but I wouldn’t want it any other way.
Rio is the best! What awesome pics!!!
Thanks Andi!
Hi Kim, I love it when someone shows me a different side to a city that I ashamedly had quite preconceived ideas about. You have shown a real ‘green’ side to Rio which is really quite inspiring. As a few others have mentioned on here I hope that when they host the World Cup next year they promote this side of the city. Thanks for some wonderful photos too.
Agreed. The city has a lot of great stuff going on- it will be interesting to see how it is promoted in both the Olympics and the World Cup.
Hey girl,
I am glad to hear that you enjoyed Rio.
Rio is gorgeous, one of the most beautiful city I’ve ever visited.
Did you look to the “Rocinha” Gueto during the night?
I can see you liked Foz do Iguaçu. Next time that you go to Brazil I need to be there and be your tour tour guide. Next time we can go to Fernando de Noronha
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fernando_de_Noronha
and to other places around my state…
Love
Yes, unfortunately
Because we are meeting friends in Kathmandu on 4/19. Excited to see Nepal but breaking my own rules to “not make plans.” Dammit!
So true Steve! I love your outlook.
{ 1 trackback }